How I made secondhand shopping work for me
Where I shop and what I look for as a born-again thrifter
This is part one of two in a series about secondhand fashion. In this post, I’m sharing my thrifting tips and tricks. In next week’s post, I’ll share my all-time favorite thrift finds.
If you’re a local reader, make sure to stop by my upcoming secondhand market, Revive and Relove, taking place on Tuesday, January 21, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at the North Central College School of Business and Entrepreneurship. I’ll be selling upcycled clothing and accessories, as well as some pre-loved items from my closet. Check out this Instagram post for all the details!
As long as I’ve been a professor, I’ve loved talking to my students about fashion. It’s a great conversation starter, and as an enthusiastic person, I can’t help but compliment or ask about an interesting outfit or garment. You wouldn’t believe how often my comment is met with the response: “Thanks, it’s thrifted!”
In recent years, I’ve gotten to know several students who are active thrifters and even vintage resellers. Their excitement for this industry is contagious, and they are so cool and stylish! My relationships with these students have changed my brain to the extent that I’ve revived my long-dormant secondhand shopping practices.
While I still tend to purchase the majority of my clothes new, a growing proportion of my closet is secondhand. Whether I’m shopping online or in person, I’ve come to count on thrifting as a way to find both unique items and closet staples at great prices.
This is not without some struggle and confusion. There have been times when I’ve walked into Goodwill (an American thrift superstore, if you will) and basically walked right back out again. It’s so overwhelming! It took me a while to realize that there are many ways - and many places - to shop secondhand, and you can pick and choose what works for you.
In this post, I’m sharing my strategies for shopping secondhand online and in person. This is not an all-encompassing guide to thrifting, but I hope it can show you that you don’t need to spend hours combing through endless racks (unless you want to) to find cool stuff.
Here’s how I’m organizing this post:
Where I shop
What I look for
How I shop
I hope my experiences can make shopping secondhand easier and more fun for you. And please, if you have any strategies of your own, make sure to share them in a comment below!
1. Where I shop
While I do pop into Goodwill from time to time, the majority of my thrifted pieces are from other outlets. Each outlet offers something different, with its own benefits and drawbacks, but together they give me plenty of choice and adventure.
Online consignment boutiques: These sites sell items clients have sent in to be sold for them. Items ship from a warehouse and clients receive part of the profits. My favorite online consignment boutique in the US is TheRealReal, but if you’re in Canada you might want to try Vestiare Collective.
Peer-to-peer secondhand markets: Sellers upload their items to a platform and ship them from their homes. The platform receives part of the profits. I use Poshmark, but I know Depop is also a fan fave! Both are active in the US and Canada.
Small, independent thrift stores: The less hip, the more suburban, the better. Cool shops in a major city will have nice curations but higher prices, as my student Julianna pointed out to me. My new favorite local spot is affiliated with a church, and I think all the stylish church grannies are the top donors.
Independent thrift and vintage resellers (online or IRL): If you find secondhand shopping overwhelming, resellers have done the hard work by building a selection targeted to specific aesthetics. Find someone whose “eye” speaks to you, and you’re set. My student Brynn, for example, keeps things cozy and casual with her brand B Thrift. Typing “vintage [category]” into Etsy also yields a goldmine.
Estate sales: Browsing someone’s possessions in their actual home is a bit of a strange concept, but for that reason, the selection is usually small and manageable. You can find an estate sale near you via this website. I also follow Blue Moon Estate Sales.
If one kind of thrifting experience doesn’t work for you, try another. Keep in mind, also, that your luck with each outlet might vary based on the day or season, as well as what you’re looking for. Consider a return visit if you’re not successful early on, because stock changes regularly.
2. What I look for
My goals and priorities change whether I’m shopping online or in person. I try to lean into the benefits and drawbacks of each format rather than forcing it to be something it’s not.
Online, I take advantage of the ability to use search filters to find exactly what I’m looking for. Usually this means I’m:
Browsing items from a favorite brand, filtered by size: If I know my size in a specific brand, I can usually shop secondhand online and not worry about fit. Poshmark doesn’t accept returns, but The RealReal does, so I can gamble a bit more on the latter than the former.
Replacing a specific item in my wardrobe: A few times now, I have replaced an item that no longer fits me with the exact item in a larger size. In each case, this item wasn’t even in stock in stores recently - someone just happened to be selling what I needed in great condition. A thrifting miracle!
In person, I have to be open to discovery and surprise. Often, racks are organized according to size and style, but this is not an exact science. I also don’t expect something on my wish list to be waiting for me. Instead, I’ll arrive with broader criteria about what I could possibly take home with me. There are three main things that will stop me in my tracks:
Quality fabrics: Whether I’m shopping new or secondhand, I prioritize clothing made entirely or primary from natural fibres, like cotton, wool, and cashmere. Since it’s growing increasingly expensive to buy clothing that meets this standard, thrifting helps fill the gap. Vintage items, such as coats and sweaters, are often made of natural fibres and also tend to be better quality than what you can buy new today!
Striking design: Thanks to trend cycles, a lot of new clothing at a given point in time tends to look the same in both design and color. Seeing a mix of past trends in a thrift store or estate sale is a good reminder to me that there are other aesthetics out there beyond the one that is popular right now. When I’m thrifting, I can always count on seeing something I’ve never seen before or haven’t seen in a long time. This makes it a cost-effective way to try out new styles.
Mainstream bargains: As much as I love something fresh and exciting, a thrift outing can also be great for finding classic closet staples at a good price. A rack of similar-but-different t-shirts can feel daunting, but you’ll probably find a handful that are like-new in your size.
Neglected items with potential: Often, clothes arrive at a thrift store in a less-than-ideal state. A sweater might be pilling. A leather bag might be dry and scratched. A shirt’s button might be loose. I’m not an overly handy person, but I’m good with basic clothing care and maintenance. If something catches my eye but it needs a little love, I’m not afraid of taking it home to restore it to its former glory.
If you’re like me, you don’t necessarily need or want to buy everything secondhand, but I hope this list shows you that there are some clear ways secondhand items can make your day. Your shopping list will be different from mine, and that’s the fun of it!
3. How I shop
I consider myself to be more interested in a “snacking” approach to thrifting as opposed to a “feasting” approach. Let’s go back to my trepidation surrounding Goodwill. The one closest to me is massive, bathed in fluorescent lighting, and full of things I don’t want to buy (with a few things I do want to buy hiding in plain sight).
Navigating Goodwill has taught me that I do not have the patience or physical fortitude to comb through its offerings one by one, row by row, section by section. (I can’t be there for hours! I’ll get hungry and tired!) It has also taught me that, whether I’m online or in person, I much prefer a quick visit focused on a specific product category, and then I’m out.
Here’s how I structure my thrift “snacking” online:
I make the same core searches nearly every day. This takes just a few minutes on each platform. On TheRealReal, there’s actually a function that saves all your searches for you in one place. On Poshmark, the “Shop” tab reveals to me the brands I follow. In each case, the platform remembers my sizes, so I only see items that would theoretically fit me.
I keep an eye out for keywords. There’s a shorthand on peer-to-peer marketplaces that took me a minute to figure out. These acronyms are now what I look for:
NWT: new with tags
NWOT: new without tags
EUC: excellent used condition
I recklessly “like” anything that stands out to me. “Liking” an item saves it to a virtual wishlist, which I check nearly every day to see what’s still in stock.
I let items sit on my wishlist for quite a while before making a purchase. Unless I can tell an item is going to sell quickly, or I was specifically looking for that item, I try to get some emotional distance from it. Often, a few days’ time on my wish list is enough for me to not even want an item anymore.
I do my research. If I want to purchase something, I do a general online search for it. This type of research lets me know if the secondhand item on my wishlist is priced fairly. It also helps me see other photos of the item (e.g., in different light, on different bodies).
I ask questions. If it’s not evident based on the listing, I ask the seller for the garment’s measurements and compare them against what I need.
I usually purchase at the asking price. Poshmark allows a buyer to make the seller an offer. Unless I can tell something is wildly overpriced, I will usually pay the asking price. I know the seller isn’t making much money on my purchase (thanks to platform and shipping fees) so I’m not entirely bothered, and I’m probably getting a bargain anyway.
Here’s how I structure my thrift “snacking” in person:
I visit a thrift store in person every few weeks. It’s not as convenient for me as shopping online, so I don’t always make the time for it. That being said, by spacing out my visits, I’m also letting the stock refresh a bit too.
I only go when I’m not rushed. I don’t want to be stressed, or pressed for time, when I’m there. (It’s too overstimulating an environment to begin with.) I give myself a big time buffer on either side of my visit so I know I can be relaxed as I browse.
I dress prepared for the occasion. This is all about setting myself up for success. I wear clothes and shoes I can remove easily if I need to try something on. I try to dress nicely to see how my potential purchases look with clothes I already own. I also make sure not to wear anything too bulky or warm so I can avoid overheating as I search (I learned the hard way).
I pick only a few key areas to explore. Even in a smaller shop, seeing everything would take ages. When I plan a visit, I consider what I’d like to explore, in terms of product categories (my favorites are coats, jackets, and accessories!). Then, I do a thorough search of those areas while ignoring the rest.
I get a little picky. Thrift stores typically don’t accept returns. If I find something I like, I start inspecting it. I review the product for holes and flaws, some of which I might be able to fix on my own. I check the fabric composition. I might even research a brand online while I’m standing in the store.
I don’t sleep on a purchase. While I “wishlist and wait” with my online thrifting, if I see something I like in person - and the price is right - I’ll usually buy it. I don’t have a reason for this. In my head, it will be gone if I wait, but I don’t actually know if it will sell if I leave it for a few days or a week. It’s always worth asking myself, though, “Would I still buy this if it weren’t so inexpensive?” If the answer is no, it’s worth considering if I actually want the item (or if I just want to buy something).
These routines don’t always go as planned, but this general approach helps me find what I need without sacrificing my comfort or time.
Have fun out there!
I hope this post has given you some ideas for your next thrifting adventure! If you’re still nervous or skeptical, I get it. Please know that thrifting does get easier as you learn what works for you. Some days you might strike out completely, but, to me, the fun of finding hidden treasures outweighs the pains.
Stay tuned next week as I share the rest of my favorite thrifted finds, and please let me know if you have any questions that weren’t answered here. Thanks for hanging out with me!